Only the designer Duran Lantink could assemble Spanish DJ and gratification musician Virgen Maria, Steve Madden footwear, and real time strippers in the Red Light District for a really theatrical, eye-popping runway presentation during Amsterdam Fashion Week.
“I like clashes in place of things going smoothly,” Lantink claims with fun, seated in their studio just a couple of times prior to the show occurred on September 1. Their design group nearby was at the midst of placing the last details on a globe silver that is-like inside the raw and industrial studio space, and a massive heap of coats were piled onto the designer’s favorite place to dream up new designs: his couch. Ever them back together, or remaking existing work into new things entirely since he can remember, Lantink has been interested in taking apart designer garments and splicing. He took his grandmother’s tablecloth and combined it with dad’s Diesel jeans to create a miniskirt when he was 12. He also has an affinity for collaging designer shoes in a manner not unlike Frankenstein.
The list of extreme projects that are upcycling was involved with is endless. He previously their very first runway show year that is just last for his May 2022 presentation follow-up, he tapped members of SistaazHood, a support group for trans women sex workers in Cape Town, with whom he’s worked for almost a decade, to host a cinematic and emotional show in which each model styled themselves. He’s also gone on to dress the celebrity set, designing pieces for Billie Eilish and Janelle Monáe (remember those vagina pants she wore in the “Pynk” video?), Doja Cat—and most recently, Beyoncé, for her tiffany that is latest’s advertisements.
“i’ve a really costly flavor,” he states. “I constantly select the priciest material, but it is perhaps not I just like the design. that I think, ‘Oh, this might be expensive,’” Heavily inspired by his mother’s sense of style growing up, his taste that is first for arrived around whenever he witnessed her number of Jean Paul Gaultier and Margiela. “In the belated ’80s, in Amsterdam, there was clearly a party that is huge and I was always looking at my mom dressing up,” he says. “I was obsessed with those clothes rather than materials. So it was really looking at fashion from a styling point of view, and it was logical to cut those things up and mesh it and create my own world out of it. for me,” And despite multiple labels as a brand that is sustainable “The idea never came from, ‘Let’s start recycling.’”
Because of that, Lantink’s pieces are one-offs, each unique. “I do n’t want to necessarily call it couture, but I think it’s very important he says of the main message behind his brand that you find your unique style in a way. “It’s crucial for individuals that like my garments or are interested my garments. They don’t really fundamentally need to be section of a combined group or community. It could be very much individual persons that like to express themselves in a* that is( way.”
For the aforementioned Steve Madden occasion during Amsterdam Fashion Week, Lantink had been careful never to reference it as a collaboration, but instead an “evening curated” by him. Bags and footwear through the Steve that is so-obviously-polar-opposite Madden lined the intimate Moulin Rouge club’s walls, as various acts, chosen by Lantink, stepped up to perform. The headliner of the night, Virgen Maria, opened the event wearing a laser bra and closed out the venue alternating between pole dancing and DJing, wearing Lantink’s globular jacket before stripping down to sunglasses, a bikini that is g-string and her signature pout. The musician Berat Bebek swung across the pole towards the tune .Perhaps many aesthetically stunning of most had been singer and motion musician Christian Yav in an oversized, boxy suit that is red whose performance verged on spiritual.
“The Red Light district has been seen as touristy and druggy, but somehow it’s the most part that is beautiful of,” Lantink states. “i must say i wished to take action to pay respect toward also sex work and all these activities that go on in the neighborhood.”
Lantink’s aesthetic is totally extreme, slightly nipple-like, and deeply personal to him. Think: full-length coats that are leopard slashed from existing Dries Van Noten and stay Studio coats; or puffy black colored dresses, made from Balenciaga and Acne Studios clothes. “It’s been like, ‘we believe that sleeve is outstanding top, or those jeans is outstanding gown.’ That Is simply my method of thinking.”
Sure, Lantink is area of the generation that is now-ubiquitous of who upcycle, but rather than take scraps of fabric or hand-me-downs, he’s not afraid to cut up splurgy designer fashion. Another thing that stands out about Lantink is his perspective on the title of “designer.” He easily shifts between calling himself an artist and a curator. “I like it to be open,” he says. He says“If you search for materials, you’re also curating the material. “Having an eye fixed to see just what works or exactly what does not work properly is exactly what i am checking out now.” Then up, the designer is likely to be going to Paris full-time, and can reveal a couture show into the town in January. If their show that is latest had been any such thing to put into practice, it is certain to be revolutionary.